Border-hopping on the Doubs 1: Valentigney to St Ursanne

This is a three-part photographic journey from Valentigney in the Pays de Montbeliard, upstream along the River Doubs to Villers-le-Lac. The river at times forms the border between France and her Helvetic neighbour, though a relatively small section, le Clos du Doubs, is entirely in the Jura canton, where it passes by St Ursanne, one of the gems of the region. These entries will take us through the lush, compelling beauty of the lower valley to the wild, intimidating grandeur of the upper reaches.

We start at the house above to celebrate the pioneering work of Étienne Oehmichen, father of the helicopter, who lived here 1918-1955. More about this prolific inventor can be found on the trilingual website of the Museum of Agriculture and Country Crafts (Musée de la Paysannerie) for which I did the English translation.

If you don't have time to take the virtual visit of the museum, you should at least know that Oehmichen made the first 1km circuit in a vertical take-off flying machine just along the road from his home. A representation of one of his constructions can be seen on the plaque below. Oehmichen is not the first name that comes to mind when we think of the helicopter, but some of his developments are still in use in rotor-driven aircraft.

We are following the Doubs by car, but will park up for some exploring along the way. Although not as popular with anglophone tourists as some other parts of France, this valley is much loved by Swiss, German and French cyclists, bikers and walkers. A passport is essential, as some hikes involve frequent border-hopping; few customs posts are permanently manned but flying patrols are not infrequent.

As soon as you've visited the museum, we'll make a start.

We've come just a few kilometres to take a look at the Roman amphitheatre shown below. We couldn't resist testing the acoustics here as some of us had done on other sites. Les Romains apparently gave the Doubs its name. I read that it has the same root as "doubt" and refers to its fluctuating levels and difficult navigation. In fact, the river cannot be navigated except by canoe or kayak at many points because of its shallowness, weirs and faults. The Doubs becomes more reliable downstream towards Besançon, but we are going in the other direction, and we will take a boat at the end of our journey.

The amphitheatre dates from the second century and has 12,000 places. As there was also a temple on the site, and no stage, it is thought to have been more an open-air pagan cathedral than a theatre, but no doubt fulfilled more than one function. It is one of the biggest amphitheatres of Gaul and digs are organised here each summer. 

We've crossed the Doubs at Pont de Roide, less than 15 minutes from Mandeure, stopping only to notice the fault-line across the river just above the bridge. We'll spend an hour exploring St Hippolyte, one of the Petites Cites Comtoises de Caractère (1), where the Doubs takes a sharp left at its junction with the Dessoubre to head towards Switzerland.

The town became important as a stronghold in 11th century, long before the existence of modern France, and through the centuries suffered at the hands of mercenaries of various nationalities, including Swiss, German and, surprisingly, Swedish. St Hippolyte only became French in 1678 after the conquest of Franche-Comte by Louis XIV. Up until 1792, shortly after the Revolution, there was a famous school of languages and Latin poetry here. 

The scenery is typical of this heavily-wooded region. From St Hippolyte the D437 zig-zags steeply to Maiche (12 kms) and the High Doubs, or else follows the Dessoubre valley, also well worth exploring. We will head for Montjoie-le-chateau and Vaufrey on the D437C, (11 kms) and get to le Haut Doubs another day. Enjoy your stroll around this relaxing little town; there's time for a drink. If you want local colour, try the Cafe des Amis; for a surer experience overlooking the square, sit out at the St Hippolyte.

We won't rush the 15-20 minute drive to little Vaufrey, from where we will backtrack on foot to tiny Montjoie. This is an undemanding walk, apart from the climb to the chapel and castle. It is the beginning of a long circular walk which crosses over into Switzerland, but we will return the way we came.

Just over the hill from Vaufrey is the Swiss village of Reclere where two family attractions occupy the same site: Les Grottes (caves) de Reclere and the Dinosaur Park. You will need a pullover for the caves, but there is nothing to fear from the lizards. If you decide on this visit, go on a little further to the viewing tower above Roche d'Or. On a good day there are breathtaking views of the Bernese Alps 70-80 miles away as the crow flies, and also of the Vosges and Jura mountains, and perhaps the Black Forest in Germany.

Vaufrey is a lovely spot, but it needs a good cafe! There is one, but …

• The tower is all that is left of the castle of Montjoie, but its situation still impresses, dominating the Doubs valley and witnessing to the violent past of the region. Known as "La Fermete" (the Firmness) it was constructed at the beginning of 13th century, united to the German empire in 1440, and destroyed by the French in 1635. It stretches the imagination to think that it required an assault of 12,000 French soldiers to take this little stronghold. Location, location, location …

• The chapel was spared, and the western facade restored in 1736. It is said to contain the preserved, perhaps mummified, body of St Claudine of Montjoie, after whom it is named.